Cycling into the Edo Period

Kyoto 京都市 , Here we come! 

A 4hr bus drive from Kanazawa brought us to Kyoto! I have been here once during the summer, and Kyoto with its Edo charm is worth a second visit.  

And of course, with the great weather, the best way to explore Kyoto is on a bicycle! 

Fushimi Inari Shrine (伏見稲荷大社) is famous for its thousands of torii gates, which straddle a network of trails behind its main buildings. These trails lead into the forest of the sacred Mount Inari, which stands at 233m. 

Giant torii gate at the shrine's entrance

The Japanese way of communicating to the deities- you gotta ring on the bell. To alert them I guess?

There are numerous fox (kitsune) statues across the shrine grounds as they are believed to be Inari's messengers. Kitsune Udon (きつねうどん), also known as Fox Udon, is a popular must-eat in that area. Japanese believes that fox enjoys eating the deep fried tofu, hence uses it to worship the foxes at Inari Shrine. You can also find the inarisushi (稲荷寿司) in those restaurant. 

The iconic Golden Temple: Kinkakuji (金閣寺). 

The extravagant architecture of this Zen temple is different for each floors and covered in gold leaf for the top 2 floors. 

Nestled amongst the traditional wooden merchant houses in the back streets of Gion, lies the highly-raved dessert jewel: Kyo-Kinana (祇園きなな). We ordered 1 chestnut parfait as it was the autumn's speciality, 1 green tea and black sesame parfait, and 2 scoops of home-made green tea ice cream. 

I'm no food connoisseur but these were darn good! Our eyes literally popped out  like this -> =O.O=  Ok, parfait first: I usually dislike parfait because those I encountered were layered with loads of cream, ice-cream, and hard cookies. As a result, the entire dessert tasted like ice-cream kachang. 

But, Kinana's parfait was PER-FECT! Maybe more than perfect. As can be seen, each layer is different, the chestnut cream, biscotti, and soft biscuits formed the apex, followed by a scoop of vanilla ice cream and wafer slices, and chestnut ice cream formed the base. 

The concerted effect of different tastes and textures made every mouthful a delight.

 And the chestnut cream? That knocked my socks off~ 100% pure chestnut. 

Not overtly sweet, ah...the lingering aroma of chestnut...

The presentation of these desserts speaks for the passion and pride Kinana has. 

I just hoped autumn would stay a lil longer when I had that last mouthful. 

Petite home-made green tea ice cream which left us craving for more! They striked a great balance between milk and matcha. How can the Japanese excel in everything!! 

Kinana is very popular even with the locals, to avoid disappointment, head there early!

~ Autumn never tasted this good ~ 

Shirakawa-go & Kanazawa

UNESCO Heritage Site: 白川郷 Shirakawa-go  

We continued our self-drive journey from Nakamurakan onsen to the picturesque village of Shirakawago, famous for its gasshō-zukuri (合掌造り) houses.

These houses are unique for their architectural style which is characterized by a thatched and steeply slanting roof resembling two hands joined in prayer, known as the 'prayer-hands construction'. 

This design allows the houses to withstand and shed the weight of the tremendous snowfall.

Stretching across the Gifu and Toyoma prefectures, this area resides within the Japan Alps region hence, experiences heavy snowfall and ski resorts with their acclaimed powdery slopes are in the vicinity. 

An ideal place for a 3D2N stay during winter! 

Shirakawa-go covered in a thick white blanket! Isn't it lovely?
Picture courtesy from Japan Ski Experience. 

I'm not sure how or when did we get addicted to the idea of self-drive trips. Perhaps its the freedom we get planning our time & route. Language barrier can form the bulk of reason people usually join tour groups, or maybe the hassle of planning the route (I planned this for a few mths. But it's my interest so I don't really mind it).

But getting lost is part of the fun isn't it? 

You get to speak to the locals and meet some really nice ones, able to travel at your own pace (no angsty tour mates to give you the death stare when you're just a min late) and the best part, no more blurry shots from the moving vehicle cause' you get to at least slow down, and snap away at the random pretties! 

In Japan, it can be a lil' tough as the GPS is in Japanese (I can't remb if they have Eng) and don't expect  the locals to speak in English especially if it's the countryside. My sister and I left the communication piece entirely to sharkie. 

Nonetheless, with the road signs, designated highways, and abit of inference skills with common sense, you won't drive to Rome ;)

Every turn on the freeway deserves an exclamation- WOWWW! 

What's better than a rainbow to start our journey for the day? :)

The jubilant display of vivid rustic colours greeted us at the entrance!

These rice fields provide the villagers' staple, and the straw collected after harvest were used to build these unique houses. Such ingenious idea :) Yes, Japanese ~

Neatly stacked straw roof. Some of these houses have been converted into souvenir shops or restaurants. There are still natives living in the villages and they provide lodging for foreigners who wish to experience rural living.
A night during winter would prove to be a magical experience!
Hope to be back there again~

After a few hours stop at the village, we continued our journey to Kanazawa for lunch. All because I read the blog post by女王 and got enticed by all the seafood pics that I simply had to visit, even though if it's just for that few hours!! i can be quite irrational when it comes to food, especially the crustaceans. Now, you know my stomach controls my brain. 

Look at that galore!! Everything was so fresh, it's as if these creatures were still alive! 

Entrance to my wonderland: The Omi-cho Market! It is a huge market with about 170 stores selling fresh fish and seafood caught in the Sea of Japan, vegetables, fruits. We were right smack in the season of the crabs, sweet shrimps and fish. 

If I were to have my last meal on this Earth, take me to Japan and give me these cholesterol meanies!  

To the World Above the Clouds & Onsen for Royalty

          The Shin-hotaka Ropeway (新穂高ロープウェイ)

          is the first in Japan to use the double-decker cabins!

Our destination of the day: Self-drive trip from Takayama to Shin-Hotaka Ropeway and the Ohuida onsen. 

We were lucky that autumn was at its peak when we visited the mountain range. 

Astounding view! 

Though I did wonder if the Japanese seeded the trees according to their colours, because they were in neat distinctive rows!

Rows of trees glimmered in yellow and orange hues; evergreens contrasted the passage of time, and the Alps clad in their white, we can only be amazed by Nature's art piece.

The ropeway brought us to the Alps observation deck at 2,156m elevation above sea level. The cute post box is the highest in Japan! Unfortunately, we could not see the Alps due to the heavy fog blanket nonetheless, the mini hailstones brought out the child in us :D 

~ The best autumn picturesque I have ever come across ~

A few hours at the ropeway before we drove to the nearby Okuhida Onsen (our lodging for the night) located in the valley at the base of the Hotaka Mountains which offer nice views of the surrounding Northern Alps.

The rotemburo (outdoor baths) in Nakamurakan (中村館). 

Our lodging for 1 night. Meals- inclusive onsen stay. It costs a whooping S$200/ pax. 

Now you know why we can't even stay an additional night :(

Baths (indoors and outdoors) are separated by gender, and we (by that I mean my sister & I went into one, and shark had the other bath entirely to himself) tried the private outdoor bath after the grandeur dinner! 

Soaking our tummies in the warm water whilst the chill night wind caressing our faces, and the quietness of the surroundings. So this was how royalty were treated in the past! Ah...Life must be dam good!

 We woke up early and went to the baths again before checking out. Must fully utilise our money! 

Our grandeur dinner. The spread was more than what I could capture. Everything was served in sequence, and the presentation looked too good to be eaten. 

What could be better than a scrumptious dinner after an onsen bath on a cold autumn night ?! 

See the layout of the dining hall ?! I wonder if they used ruler. 

Our breakfast before checking out. It is always a pleasure to wake up to a spread of healthy breakfast. The miso paste is home-made and goes so well with the rice. Japanese food is just so clean & exquisite.  They have the ability to make the simplest food taste great effortlessly. 

Even their eggs taste much better~ 

And no, I am not exaggerating. 

Have I not reiterate enough? Japan is simply amazing ;)

Cycling the Streets of Takayama

Hida-Takayama 飛騨高山, the birthplace of Sarubobo (さるぼぼ) !

An hour's train from Gero brought us to Takayama. Train rides in Japan are always enjoyable. The smooth, quiet engines add to the tranquility of green countryside. 

Japanese houses dotted the outskirts enroute to Takayama.

For an unique experience, why not try the temple stay? The price is pocket-friendly, given the steep prices of lodging in Japan. Weren't we happy that we did not have to wake up at 4am to chant with the monks and devotees :D

Our temple stay in Takayama

We began our F&E day tour on bicycles! Riding against the 20 (or lower) degree celsius wind, taking in the autumn colours & exploring nooks & creaks.
Traveling on 2 wheels can sometimes be better than 4 :)

Our sushi stop for breakfast. The medium raw hida Beef was good, and with that bit of ginger paste, it took away the game taste. 

Floats Exhibition Museum (Yatai Kaikan)

These elaborated large floats (yatai) are used during the yearly 高山祭 Takayama Matsuri which takes place during April and October. These floats date back to the 17th century and are decorated lavishly with embroidered drapery and intricate carvings of gilded wood. 

Old Town (Sanmachi)
  Walking along the stretch of Edo Period houses evokes nostalgia. Step into these houses, and you'll find throngs of tourists jostling with one another and store owners selling their wares consisting of souvenirs (sarubobo!!), local sake, miso paste etc, albeit without the kimono.

Hida Beef 

“Hida-gyu” (Hida Beef) is the specific name given to beef from a black-haired Japanese cattle breed, that has been raised in Gifu Prefecture for at least 14 months. Hida-gyu is certified to have a Yield Score of Grade A or B by the Hida Beef Brand Promotion Conference, and have a Firmness and Texture Grade of 5, 4 or 3 as graded by the Japan Meat Grading Association. Other Grades of Hida beef are called “Hida Wagyu” (Hida Japanese Beef).'' 

God knows if we had Hida Beef or Hida Japanese Beef ( they sound similar), all I know is, I will never forget that day the perfectly marbled slices of fat devils melted in my mouth!

If you have eaten beef in Japan, nowhere beats it ~

Yokoso! Gero Onsen Town

Foreword: A sisters bonding trip to Japan and Korea before she embark on her studies. A 2 weeks grandeur trip brought us to many beautiful places in Western Japan and Korea. Autumn colored Japan in flaming red, yellow, orange and brown. The best trip ever and I wish to do this again! 

Hectic schedule right from the start of our tour: A midnight flight on Vietnam air from Singapore to Incheon with layover in HCM -> Afternoon Jeju air flight to Nagoya -> 3h Train from Nagoya to Gero.  But Gero was worth the arduous journey. 

Welcome to Gero Onsen 下呂温泉 ! 

One of the 3 best onsens in Japan. There are public bathhouses and open-air footbaths where you can sit and relax for free and ward off the chill :) 

One of the numerous onsen hotel in Gero. 

Free public foot bath. Perfect for the chilly weather! 

Good Morning Gero! 

View outside our ryokan.

Female only onsen. 

Home-made miso paste. So delicious, you can just eat this with plain rice. 

Morning breakfast set.
It is a luxury to wake up to a hearty breakfast ! 

Gero streets.

In an onsen town, you can walk around in yukata attire.
The 'click-clog' made with every steps transported me back to childhood... 

Our 3-bed ryokan. In Japan, you sleep on thick mattress known as futons. Quite comfortable! 

Our ryokan! Supposed to be one of the cheapest in the area. 

A quaint onsen town worth a night or two stay~